Wine, like the river

Joseph Ruiz, sommelier at Delfín, on building a wine list for the world’s first Relais & Châteaux Amazon river cruise

An Amazon cruise sommelier’s wine list with a sense of place

There is an unglamorous question worth asking before stepping aboard a boat in the middle of the rainforest: what gets poured here, and why?

Most high-end hotels play it safe, offering a predictable experience that’s more about reassurance than excitement. They usually provide a list of wines, neatly organized by country and price, which can be comforting, but also a bit dull. The real star of the show isn’t the wine itself, but the sense of security that comes with knowing exactly what to expect. But Delfín is different, thanks to Joseph Ruiz Acosta, the Amazon cruise sommelier who brings a unique touch to the table.

Joseph knows the wine list for Delfín, the first Relais & Châteaux Amazon river cruise, is a big deal. It can’t be an afterthought. It has to match the high standards of the kitchen, the river, and the kind of hospitality that Relais & Châteaux has stood for since 1954. That means supporting independent producers, showcasing local flavors, and highlighting the unique character of the place.

The problem is, the Pacaya Samiria reserve doesn’t exactly have a thriving wine scene. So the list becomes a kind of translation. Joseph finds bottles from elsewhere that complement the local cuisine without overpowering it. The menu features paiche, chonta, jungle herbs, and Andean grains. The wine has to converse with these flavors without imposing its own identity. It’s a delicate balance, and one that’s essential to a truly immersive dining experience on the Delfín.

We had a conversation with him to figure out how he manages to solve it.

What changes when the table is in the middle of the Amazon?

“It changes for the better. The view, the calm, the service all come together. The guest disconnects from the world, from their worries, and lets themselves be carried by their senses and by their company.”

Sounds pretty. Also true. In hot climates, heavy oak becomes a piece of furniture in the glass. Dense, concentrated reds blur out. Alcohol spikes. The body wants freshness. Joseph builds from there.

If Delfín were a wine, what would it be?

“A complex, exotic wine. Warm, but with freshness.”

When it comes to wine, there are a few key styles that stand out – think bubbly, crisp mineral whites, and smooth reds that still manage to hold onto their complexity. But the main thing to keep in mind is that the wine glass should never overpower the meal, or even the surroundings, like a serene river. It’s all about finding that perfect balance.

The spine of the list, in one phrase?

“Versatility. A bit of everything for everyone.”

When you see Joseph in action, it’s clear that his approach to wine is not just about playing it safe. He has a way of making wine accessible to everyone, whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur who knows the Rhône region like the back of your hand, or a newcomer who’s just starting to explore the world of wine. He can talk to anyone, from the classicist who has a deep appreciation for traditional wines, to the curious diner who admits they don’t know much about wine, to the adventurous foodie who’s always on the lookout for something new and exciting. What makes Joseph’s approach so effective is the hard work and dedication he puts into understanding the complexities of wine, and being able to convey that knowledge in a way that’s engaging and easy to understand.

The wine list is easily accessible on an iPad, thanks to an app called Wine Advisor. This app provides context, region, and story for each label, making it simple for guests to browse and learn. Even someone who claims to know nothing about wine can follow a thread of interest and arrive at the sommelier with curiosity piqued. As Joseph explains, “We never push our recommendations.” Instead, the list is descriptive enough that it encourages guests to ask questions and experiment with different wines. This approach allows guests to take the lead in their wine journey, discovering new flavors and styles at their own pace.

Three bottles that tell a story

Now we have some interesting wines to consider. The Intipalka Patrimonial line is a great example of this, as it brings back traditional Peruvian grape varieties that were almost lost due to standardization. Then there’s the La Frenesía Pinot Noir, which comes from the chilly Argentine Patagonia region, where the harsh climate actually helps to tame the notoriously finicky Pinot Noir grape. On the other hand, we have the Vontade Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile’s Maipo region, which defies the region’s typical style by being less dense and more acidic, with a focus on elegance, achieved by aging it in Austrian fudres from the renowned Stockinger cooperage. These three wines represent a thoughtful and intentional approach to wine selection, with each one offering something unique and exciting.

Champagne Vollereaux is a unique wine that sparks conversations. When served very cold, it’s like a quiet introduction, but as the glass warms up in your hand, the wine begins to open up and reveal its true character. It’s as if the wine is having a conversation with you, changing and evolving with every sip. This subtle transformation is almost like a dialogue, with the wine sharing new flavors and aromas as it warms up, making it a truly engaging and dynamic drinking experience.

Sparkling on the river: always, or it depends?

It’s perfect for hot days, really helps to cool you down and refresh your body with just one sip.

On Peruvian wine, Joseph leans in. Let him speak in full. It connects to something Relais & Châteaux cares about: where wine comes from, and who is making it.

And Peruvian wine? Where do you see it today, honestly?

“Something big is happening in Peru, from the people making wine to the experts who help pick the best ones for restaurants. But there’s still one thing missing – Peruvians need to realize that their own country makes great wine. This is happening slowly, though. It’s like what happened with other products that people didn’t know much about, so they preferred things from other countries. Now, people who visit from other countries already know about Peruvian wine. I work a lot with Peruvian wine and I make sure to give it a chance. I’m in charge of a competition where we tasted over 240 Peruvian wines without knowing what they were, just last year. Ten years ago, it was hard to find good Peruvian wines to put on a list, but now it’s a different story.”

The quote runs long. It should. It says, more honestly than any paraphrase could, why a sommelier working on the world’s first Relais & Châteaux river cruise has decided to make Peruvian wine a personal cause.

Sustainability: what’s real, what’s marketing?

Sustainability is a complex issue, and it’s often used as a way to sell products. But what people often forget is that sustainability is not just about the environment, it’s also about being fair to the people involved. It’s about treating workers with respect and paying them a fair price for their work. You tend to see this kind of approach more in smaller and medium-sized businesses, where things are easier to control because of the smaller scale.

A working definition of sustainability in wine, without solemnity: forget the certifications, look at who picks the grapes, in what conditions, for what wage. Specifics over slogans, as Delfín itself puts it.

The mistake you refuse to make?

“Marking up too much. The price not being worthy of the wine. A wine being luxurious does not mean it has to be wildly expensive.”

In an industry where “luxury list” often translates to “covering margins by inflating prices,” that is worth saying out loud.

For the road

Three words for Delfín’s list: diversity, small producers, didactic.

Secret pairing on board: heart-of-palm salad with something sparkling. Simple plate, complex glass. A quiet rebuttal of the idea that pairing requires a five-star table and an over-elaborate dish.

For sunset on the Marañón: a fresh white. For a night of rain in the jungle: a Pinot Noir.

Joseph shares a practical tip: as the day unfolds, each guest should claim their own special spot on the boat. Maybe it’s lounging by the pool in the warm afternoon sun, or perhaps it’s standing at the bow under the starry night sky. For Joseph, wine is all about the experience; it’s savored in a specific place, at a particular moment, and in the company of good people. That’s his one and only rule. Everything else, he says, is better left to the river’s gentle flow, allowing the journey to unfold naturally.

About Joseph Ruiz Acosta

Joseph has had an amazing career in the wine world. He started out as an assistant sommelier at Central, a restaurant in Lima that ended up being one of the best in the world. That was back in 2011. Since then, he’s trained at some big names like Cenfotur and the Instituto del Vino y el Pisco. He’s even taken the Court of Master Sommeliers exams and did really well in the Best Sommelier of the World championship, coming in 27th place in 2023. Joseph is also one of the founders of ALIPS, a group for sommeliers in Peru. He’s going to be representing his country in some big competitions soon, like the Best Sommelier of the Americas in 2025 and the Best Sommelier of the World in 2026.

When he’s not working as the head sommelier on a fancy Amazon river cruise, he teaches people about wine, consults with others, and travels to find small wine producers to bring back home. He’s actually been named the Best Sommelier of Peru four times, which is a pretty big deal. Those years were 2015, 2018, 2019, and 2024. Joseph is definitely someone who knows his wine and is making a name for himself in the industry.